What It Feels Like to Watch a Freight Train Pass Under You

Posted on Aug 9, 2026 by krfarmer

There are moments on a bicycle ride that you simply can’t plan for.

This week, while riding my bicycle through the farmlands and along rail line of central Illinois, I heard the unmistakable sound of a train approaching.

I was crossing a bridge when I stopped to watch it.

The railway line came down a valley full of natural bush, and the train was still some distance away. I pulled out my camera and started recording as it came around the corner toward me.

As the train got closer, I waved to the engineer.

He gave me a friendly HOOONK!

Then things got interesting.

As the locomotive approached the bridge, I could feel the air begin to move. A few seconds later, the train was directly below me.

The wind hit first.

Then came the smell and exhaust from the locomotive.

And suddenly, something very strange happened.

It felt like I was standing in the middle of the railway tracks.

I knew I was standing safely on the bridge. I could see the train below me. I knew exactly where I was.

But my senses were telling me something completely different.

For a moment, it felt as though the train was coming straight at me and passing right through where I was standing.

I actually took a step to the side.

Not because I was in danger, but because my brain was telling me to get out of the way.

And then there was another strange sensation.

While part of me felt as though I was standing in the middle of the tracks, another part felt almost as if I were floating above the train.

It was a very strange combination of sensations.

I think some of it comes from watching the train through the camera.

The camera gives you a different perspective from what your eyes are seeing in reality. When you combine the movement of the train, the sound, the wind, the vibration of the bridge and the view through the camera, with quick glances over the camera your brain seems to struggle to decide exactly what it is experiencing.

It reminded me of watching a 3D movie.

You know you’re sitting safely in a theater, but your brain reacts as though the object on the screen is actually moving toward you.

That’s what this felt like.

Only this wasn’t a movie.

I was standing on a bridge over a railway line in the middle of Illinois, with a real freight train passing directly underneath me.

And for a few seconds, it felt like I was right in the middle of it.

Take a look at the video and see if you get the same sensation I did.

Maybe it’s just me—but watching the train approach on camera gives the whole experience a completely different perspective.

One of the great things about cycling is that you never really know what you’re going to encounter around the next corner—or, in this case, underneath the next bridge.

Kayaking to Domwe Island, Lake Malawi in Great Rift Valley/ An Unforgettable Malawi Adventure

Posted on Jul 11, 2026 by krfarmer

What would you do if you had to paddle across one of Africa’s deepest lakes, knowing the dark water beneath you drops hundreds of metres into the Great Rift Valley?

That was the challenge I faced when I decided to kayak from Kayak Africa to Domwe Island on Lake Malawi (also known as Lake Niassa). It became one of those travel experiences that pushed me beyond my comfort zone and reminded me that the best adventures often begin with a little uncertainty.

Before setting off, the team at Kayak Africa explained that everyone paddling to the island must be accompanied by a guide. The lake conditions can change quickly, and they want to ensure every guest arrives safely. We left early in the morning, taking advantage of the calm morning before the wind had a chance to build.

Thumbi west Island Infront Kayak Africa lodge with Domwe Island just out view on the right.

Although I’d kayaked before, I certainly wouldn’t call myself experienced. As I climbed into the kayak, it felt surprisingly wobbly, and I wondered if I’d made the right decision. But there was no turning back now.

From the shore, Mumbo Island looked deceptively close. Once you’re relying entirely on your own muscles to get there, however, the distance seems to stretch endlessly across the water.

About halfway through the crossing, my shoulders were burning. Every paddle stroke reminded me of muscles that clearly hadn’t been used for this kind of workout in a long time.

Then something unexpected happened.

The water beneath me changed from a light blue to an incredibly dark blue-green. Instantly, my imagination took over.

Lake Malawi sits within the Great Rift Valley, where the African continent is slowly pulling apart. Over millions of years, enormous rift lakes formed here, creating incredible depths. Technical scuba divers travel from around the world to explore these deep waters because they offer exceptional diving conditions without the powerful currents found in the ocean.

Knowing just how deep the lake was made me wonder what might be lurking below.

Of course, there were no monsters beneath me—but my imagination painted a different picture. Every glance into the dark water made it feel as though some giant creature could emerge from the depths at any moment.

To quiet those thoughts, I fixed my eyes firmly on the beach ahead. One paddle stroke after another.

The beach where I landed at Domwe Island with the dining room deck showing.

As the crossing progressed, the wind began to pick up. Soon small whitecaps formed across the lake, and the waves reached around two feet high. The kayak rose and dipped over each swell, its bow slicing through the water. They weren’t ocean-sized waves, but for someone with limited kayaking experience, they certainly commanded respect.

Meanwhile, my guide paddled calmly beside me, making it all look effortless.

Eventually, the shoreline grew larger, and before long my kayak scraped gently onto the beach.

I climbed out feeling exhausted, relieved—and incredibly proud.

My kayak with guides kayak and another person stopping by to check if lodge needs help.

Sometimes the greatest part of an adventure isn’t reaching the destination. It’s discovering that you’re capable of much more than you first believed.

If you’re looking for an unforgettable experience in Malawi, kayaking across Lake Malawi to Domwe Island or other islands can be one I can wholeheartedly recommend. It’s physically challenging, mentally rewarding, and offers a unique perspective on one of Africa’s most spectacular lakes.

Want more real travel adventures like this?

Download my ebook and discover the stories, lessons, and unforgettable experiences from my bicycle journeys across Africa. If you enjoy authentic adventure travel, practical tips, and moments that push you beyond your comfort zone, you’ll love what’s inside. My ebook Run away to Africa by Kenneth Fagan on Amazon. There is a link in the shop page. If you want to book accommodation on an island https//kayakafrica.co.za can be found on Google.

Kayak Africa link

Run away to Africa Ebook

Tour de Dad

Posted on Apr 7, 2026 by krfarmer

Was thinking of the tour I did with my dad. It has been 4 years and 8 months from his passing. I will advise to take trips like this with your loved ones.

Mangrove midge in Mozambique. (posted on Camp fire stories page)

Posted on Mar 29, 2026 by krfarmer

Cycling in Africa: A Night Ride and Village Welcome in Mozambique

Posted on Mar 29, 2026 by krfarmer

I was riding my bicycle through the African savannah as the sun hit the horizon when a thought hit me that made the road ahead feel a lot longer — my small headlamp wasn’t strong enough to spot elephants in time if they were standing on the road. Earlier that day I had already passed two elephant skulls and several piles of dung. Now the night was closing in fast.

Long-distance cycling in Africa always comes with a sense of adventure and the unexpected. While riding my bicycle from Mague to Estima in Mozambique, I experienced one of those nights that perfectly captures what bicycle touring across Africa can be like.

The road stretched out in front of me — a good tar road cutting through the wide African savannah. But I was starting to worry about where I would camp for the night.

This region had once been part of the Mozambican civil war, and I knew landmines had been planted in areas not far from the road. Camping randomly along the roadside didn’t feel like a good idea.

Cycling into the African Night

The sun slowly dipped below the horizon and soon disappeared completely. One by one the stars came out, leaving me riding through the savannah with only a small head headlamp lighting the way.

From past experience cycling in Africa, I knew that light wouldn’t give me enough time to identify elephants on the road ahead. At night, elephants often blend into the darkness. With a spotlight they simply look like part of the night itself.

That meant there was a real possibility of riding straight into a herd before realizing what was happening — something no cyclist wants to experience.

Finding a Village in Mozambique

Around 8 p.m., I finally came across a small tribal village and decided to stop and ask if I could camp there for the night.

As I stopped, I promptly fell off my bicycle when my cleat refused to disengage — not the most impressive entrance into the village.

An older man saw the whole thing. We tried to communicate, but neither of us understood the other. He called over a younger man who, fortunately for me, had spent time working in Zimbabwe and spoke some English.

I explained that I was cycling across Mozambique and asked if I could camp in the village.

The answer was respectful but not simple.

They told me they didn’t have permission to allow it. I would need to speak to the night watch — the man responsible for keeping elephants out of the farmland at night.

Asking the Village Elder

We found the night watch, and after listening to my story he explained that he also didn’t have the authority to allow it. Only the village elder could make that decision.

So we walked to the elder’s house.

He wasn’t there at the time and was visiting somewhere else in the village, so we waited outside. About fifteen minutes later he returned.

When he arrived, my translator bowed down, making sure his head stayed lower than the elder’s chin — a sign of respect still practiced in the village. Seeing that in today’s modern world was fascinating, and I wasn’t quite sure if I should be doing the same.

The elder listened carefully to my story about cycling across Africa and looking for a safe place to camp.

Then he smiled and immediately offered a place right beside his house.

Camping in an African Village

I thanked him and set up my tent near his home. The elder then asked through the translator if I needed food. I told him I had brought some with me, so I cooked a simple meal of instant noodles.

Later that evening I sat under the trees near his house where several elders of the village were gathered talking quietly in the dark. I didn’t understand their language, but it was still a special moment to sit there and share the night air with them.

Eventually I excused myself and crawled into my tent. Not knowing how safe my bicycle would be, I pulled it inside the tent with me — which made for a tight fit in a two-man tent.

Sunrise in the Village

Just before sunrise the roosters began crowing and the village slowly came alive with the sounds of morning.

I packed my gear back onto the bicycle and waited for my translator, who had said he would come by in the morning.

Soon the elder stepped out of his house. I asked the translator to thank him again for his hospitality. Once again, the young man bowed respectfully as he spoke.

Then I climbed onto my bicycle and rode out of the village as the sun rose like a glowing ball on the horizon.

In the daylight I could finally see the village clearly — round mud houses with thatched roofs, dusty ground with chickens wandering everywhere, and the African savannah stretching beyond it.

And just like that, my Mozambique cycling adventure continued down the road toward Estima.

Growing the LongDaySafaris Community on TikTok

Posted on Mar 15, 2026 by krfarmer

Over the past few months I’ve been thinking about how to grow the longdaysafaris.com community and share more of the things I’m passionate about. So I’ve made a few changes that I’d like to share with you.

First, I’ve launched a TikTok account as well as a TikTok Seller account on TikTok. The goal is to create short videos related to the things many of us enjoy—travel, cycling, farming life, and the occasional story from the road.

Alongside the videos, I’ve also started putting items up for sale through the platform. At the moment, I’m beginning with print-on-demand T-shirts, some of which are inspired by farming life and cycling culture. These are two passions of mine, and it seemed like a natural place to start. Here are two links to my first print on demanad T-shirts. At this stage they are only available on tikTok in the USA:

Cycle tourist https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZP9Re7MN8rkpq-oMMyB/

Freedom cycling https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZP9Re7wUaXj4F-uzRFe/

Over time I plan to expand into other items and ideas related to:

Farming and livestock life
Bicycle touring and long-distance cycling
Travel and safari experiences
Practical gear and products connected to these lifestyles

Another interesting development has been the impact on this blog. Since setting up the TikTok accounts, the traffic to LongDaySafaris has more than doubled. That tells me there is real interest out there, and it has motivated me to begin posting more regularly again.

But I’d like this site to grow with the help of the people who read it.

I’d love your feedback

What topics would you like me to write about?

Some ideas might include:

Bicycle touring routes and tips
Stories and experiences from African travel
Farming life and livestock production
Preparing for international travel
Advice for first-time visitors to Africa

If there’s something you’d like to know more about, feel free to leave a comment or send me a message. Your feedback will help guide future posts.

A New Perspective

Another change in my life is that I now live in the United States. That has given me a different perspective on travel and logistics, especially for people planning trips abroad. Because of this, I hope I can be even more helpful to international travelers planning trips to Africa—whether it’s understanding the realities of travel, preparing properly, or simply knowing what to expect.

LongDaySafaris started as a place to share experiences from the road. Going forward, I hope it becomes even more of a community for people interested in adventure, cycling, farming life, and travel.

Thanks for reading and for being part of the journey. Here are a few photos to wet your thirst.

Living in a new world

Posted on Oct 3, 2021 by krfarmer

I have enjoyed my time discovering Africa on my bicycle. However that chapter has come to an end in my life. I named my blog Long Day Safaris as the bicycle gave me long days to look and dream in Africa. Most people think of safaris as trips into wild Africa. This was true for many days on the bicycle. Like my first tour in Mozambique. The night I had to stop ridding and look for a village to pitch my tent. As I was afraid I might ride into a herd of elephant in the dark. I was also hoping my blog might spring board me into some sort of cycle touring business. I soon realized this was a very small group of crazy people that would take so much time out to have a great African adventure. Also that most crazy people on bicycles figure out their own adventure.

So I am open to help people with questions about places I have been or lived. I will help you with the knowledge I have gained.

Due to the safety of living on a farm in South Africa and the welfare of my family. I have had to make a tough decision to leave my beloved Africa. Africa is in my blood and the wild bush Pricks me with life. The fight for survival of the people and animals amaze me. The sunsets and sunrises are dreams in my mind. The quenching raindrops that hit the dry parched earth give off a smell of life and survival. Now do not let me get to home sick.

I have immigrated to the United States. Where I have a dream of riding the Great Divide some day. In the meantime I am waiting for my bicycle to come from Africa. I am setting up house and learning the ropes of the American way of farming.

As the title of this blog shows it is a whole new world. It feels like I have turned my clock back forty years. To when I was a child back in Africa. The children leave there bicycles on the lawn in front of the house. On the weekends people are pushing lawnmowers up and down. I have not seen a beggar or a person sleeping on the street. People drive slower and give right of way at intersections. People actually stop their cars for people at the pedestrian crossing. No taxis pushing their way around in the traffic. The pot holes in the road get repaired. There is no trash laying around. The electric supply company gives power 24 hours 365 days, in South Africa the electric company has gone to disrepair and cannot always supply electric. The list can go on for a long time. South Africa was not always in a state of decay as it is now.

Now I will write of gravel ridding in Minnesota. I went down to the one and only bicycle shop in Fairmont. To see what spares they stock. Let me give you a warning. The owner Larry is full of jokes. It will take time for me to learn if he is serious or pulling my leg. I first read of his passion for bicycles on the internet. It will be a great loss to this town the day he decides to close his doors.

My first visit to the shop found it closed on a Saturday. Next visit was after work to find the tools outside where He sits and fixes bicycles. The shop was open and nobody to be found. It is like a museum in there. The bikes all hang from the ceiling. Then there is the stack of bike boxes. Next visit was on a Saturday. This time there was a hand written note on the door to say if you need help phone this number. As my bike is not here yet I decided it was not an emergency.

One day after work I drove past and saw some people sitting outside and talking. So I stopped but I was not ready for what was to happen next. Larry pulled my leg about everything. He then invited me and the other two ladies there to join him for a free supper which he was just going to pick up at the local church. Then off he went with the one lady and came back with some food. Then there was the offer of a cool drink. We landed up closing shop as the sun was setting around 7pm.

So the long and the short of it is. If you are ever stuck in Fairmont Minnesota phone the number on the door and Larry will help. Just remember to put the area code 507 in front of the number. He stocks mostly Trek bikes. He has some Ebikes. He let me try out a recombinant Ebike. That was a little fast and made me scarred with no crash bar in the front.

So I am looking forward to the new adventure. Might just have to let the cold winter pass before I do some touring.

Water and energy drinks

Posted on Sep 1, 2020 by krfarmer

I have read in a number of places that people are not finding the right method of hydration or energy supplements. I am no doctor or pro trainer. However I will give my personal feeling and experience. There are two experiences I have with this. One is cycle touring and the other is endurance racing. There is a huge difference in these two categories compared to short MTB and road races. On the short race you can almost make a magic mix of energy and re-hydration that will fit for all races you normally do. However the long road has a different set of challenges.

When touring or endurance racing you are often challenged with space to carry enough of all the magic powders to mix to keep you going. When they run out they are also not readily available along the track/road. Also the flavors of all these artificial powders stays on your tongue and after a few days it feels like you have been dragging your tongue along the ground for kilometres. This is why you have to look at a different stratagem.

I now have settled down to the following stratagem:

Carry some Re-hydrate sport packets for when the heat draws the water out your system faster than you can replenish the water. This can be life threatening. For this I have one 750 ml sport re-hydrate bottle mixed on hot days.
Have a plain water bottle to rinse mouth out and keep mouth moist.
Energy is always taken in by eating solids. That way you can balance your hydration and nutritional needs seperatlly.

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Let me look at these individually.

Re-hydrate sport is light and compact and can be pushed into all the small gaps between all your other kit. These drinks can be tempting to drink to much when you are feeling thirsty. If I have drunk to much during the day my body naturally balances out this in the night when I sleep. If I wake up in a sweat and all my clothes are wet. This is the way the body gets rid of all the water it did not need. Then I know I should take it easy on the re-hydrate. This can help you also make the re-hydrate go a lot further resulting in you not having to carry as much with you. Dehydration can be very dangerous in hot climates so be prepared when planning your trip. There are also natural ways around over heating and loosing water from your system. These can be cooling down under a tree, wearing long sleeves to protect from the sun, taking a swim in every river you cross or splashing water over you (water can be in short supply) and cycling in the night. Some of these options are not on for endurance racing so may have to use re-hydrate or cycle at night.

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Plain water bottle is the best and main hydration method to use. This can be filled at any time from backup water supply bladders or local water sources.

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You do not have to wait till it is empty to make a mix so when you stop it can just be topped up. I like to have a bladder in a frame bag so can just take a sip when you want. In hot climates I fill this with ice blocks at any shop I can find.

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If you can keep the water cool it helps to cool you down. Bottles in bottle cages are exposed to the heat off the road or environment can become like tea, making you more thirsty. However if it is hot the water in the pipe coming from the frame bag can get hot and make you feel more thirsty. There are insulated sport drink bottles that can be used to keep water cool.

Energy or nutrients as solids are wonderful. They can be timed to the need. For example on the long road you see a big mountain a head. Pull out a high energy bar or fruit before accent to give you a burst of energy to take it on. This takes practice to get used to when to use it. The body can tell you what is the right time and how long it takes to be released into the blood stream. These energy and nutrient solids have to be sourced along the road. This way you do not have to carry so much with you. If you are going to be touring in Africa or Europe it will be good to get an idea as to what the local supplies are. Then practice with them a little before the time. I like suckers or sweets that can melt in your mouth slowly releasing energy over a long time. Even a mouth full of plain water with them can turn it into a refreshing cool drink.

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Safe water to dink is also a challenge to get hold of. You can filter water for piece of mind. Treat it with chlorine. UV treatment is also available or just buy some water. This is another discussion. Here are a few photos. Happy cycling just get out and find away to get out.

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Run away to Africa-Ria Savane and Home

Posted on Mar 6, 2020 by krfarmer

There are men that go out deep sea with dugouts that use meal bags for sails. They go so far out to sea to fish they become little specks out there. You can see them with binoculars. They fish with the big boats that are trolling. They have no life jackets, no safety equipment. Amazing they do not fall out when they stand up and cast nets or use fishing lines as the water swells up and down.

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Here I spend a lot of time with a wonderful couple from Zimbabwe. They went through the war of independence all the years through the economic crash. Now the new economy with US$ that they try not to put in the bank in case it gets taken by the government. They say us South Africans must stop South Africa from going the same way as Zimbabwe. South Africa is the only thing that keeps their country going so it is important that we get it right.

Chatting with this couple I learned a lot about surviving in Africa under tough times. For the safety of the couple I will not go into details. Topics such as economic survival, Health care, enjoying the environment, social networking, business methods and bribery. After it all they love Zimbabwe.

Fishing shoulder deep in water helps you to keep cool.

I did some fishing with him in the estuary. I tried spinners, drop shot and shrimps. The little fish like the shrimps however they are too small to get caught on the hook. He caught one small fish all week. I caught nothing all week. It was good therapy standing or sitting next to the water.

Low tide on river side of Lodge.

Sea was nice and warm and the waves gentile, not too big. Could float around and chat with those in the water. From time to time there would come a wave big enough to body surf to the beach. Could go out about forty meters and be up to your waist. There was a very weak side currents and backwash.

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There arrived early one evening a very British man that came from Zimbabwe who also did some chatting. He invited me to call him if I visit again. He would like to take me up to Kariba dam. He says he has had his nicest experiences there. Doing game viewing from boats and relaxing on the water.

I enjoyed watching him talk with the lodge manager. Every now and again there would sit a mangrove midget on his face. Then the manager would say one o’clock and he would hit his own face. Then three o’clock and he would hit himself on the face at three o’clock. Was very effective, he got most of them before they had a chance to suck to much blood. The directions flowed into the conversation without even a thought from ether party.

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This is what the mangrove swamp looked like that surrounded the lodge.

Well all good things must come to an end. Early morning of 24 December 2012 woke up to a running stomach, popped some Imodium tablets. So I packed up camp with much pain. I was planning to ride my bicycle to airport. However did not feel good so took a lift with lodge manager and wife as they were going into Beira for supplies. I rode from the off ramp on the highway to the airport.

The security would not let me take my bicycle into airport. Even when I tried to explain it was going on the airplane. So had to lock it then find my check in and make arrangements to pack it. Then brought it into the airport, much to the horror of the security officials. Then got the baggage rappers to rap it for me. I had brought one small box with me and they got some cardboard pieces and wrapped it. This drew a small group of interested parties. They had a wonderful time working out how to get it wrapped. It took about forty minutes. I paid them three or four hundred meticals for the work. Then I had to go through my photos of my trip with some of them. They were very amazed that somebody could come by bicycle all the way from Harare. They did not understand too much but there was one that understood little English.

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No transport to airplane. Just walk out onto the runway and climb on the plan.

Flight was good the only problem was I got sick as my stomach had not come right. It was a nice short flight to Johannesburg. Flight itself was only one hour forty minutes. My parents met me at the airport.

Later that afternoon and early evening I was not feeling good. My family took me down to the hospital. After all the blood test showed up negative for any tropical diseases and a drip to rehydrate me. I was out again in three hours. It took about three days to stop the runs but felt good after the drip.

Ended off an adventure with my family at my house on the farm for Christmas. This trip was enough to get me hooked to do more tours. However time and occasion does not always allow it. Now the last chapter has been publishes I will need to make it into a ebook. Then will have to write my next adventure book of my trip to Malawi.

Run away to Africa- Beira to Ria Savana

Posted on Dec 18, 2019 by krfarmer

Beira is a big city with suburbs and factory zones. Thought I was there but it was the out skirts, to centre of town is about 10km. Then there is the madness of uncontrolled traffic circles. It is a little run down as most places in this country. No street signs making it a little difficult to find the Hotels suggested by the travel guide. After going up and down town and choosing the second hotel on the list, I booked in.

O, how nice it was to take a good shower to wash all the mud off. Put on some clean cloths which made me feel like a new person. Then it was wash time and hung out washing in the shower. Now I was ready to face this city.

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Took a walk down to the beach and found very brown looking sea water. Fishermen going through their nets and leaving all the small fish and shrimps on the beach. Then the hungry people going through the scraps to make themselves some food. What was left was left to rot on the beach. This left a nice fishy stink. It was very windy and the sea did not look very nice, so did not even put a toe in the sea. The little children were swimming in underpants and very small children with no clothes on. Adults were just watching the children swimming in the sea.

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So walked along the marine parade and looked for a nice eating place. There was a big traffic circle with Samora Michael statue and a nice restaurant on the outside of the circle. Went into find what it was like, to find it quite expensive. So decided to walk back on the marine parade back toward where my hotel was. Decided on eating at the restaurant come bar with the same name as my hotel Miramar. This was as the sun was setting. Looked like quite a popular spot. There was even a big screen TV playing cartoons. Food was good and the price reasonable. Sat there and enjoyed seen the night life of the city. Watching how the locals interact with the sound of the see in the background was quite relaxing.

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I walked back to the hotel which was only one block away. On the way there was a group of hoarse calling out to me. Telling me they can give me a good time. They were such a mix of different races that they looked quite scary.

Next morning woke up early to find it raining. Took a ride to Checkers a large grocery store that I was familiar with. Purchased food for breakfast and my trip to the holiday resort up the coast. I also drew some money from the ATM there. Back at hotel and eat breakfast and packed to move on. By this time the rain had stopped.

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Took the road parallel with the sea and headed north. Finding the old light house stopped to have a look. There were ruins of holiday buildings of a bye gone era. There was an old life savers look out and a ship wreck on the beach. It is such a pity this town could be up graded to a lovely holiday destination if the right marketing and revamps were done.

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On I went north passing the international airport. So at lease I knew where to come back to fly home. Got back on the highway out of Beira. Then took the small turning off to Rio Savane. It was sign posted by an old sign advertising the resort. Lucky had seen the sign when I rode into Beira the day before.

This road headed out into the swamplands where there were a number of farms. Found a modern dairy with Friesland cattle, another crocodile farm. The swamp ploughed with drainage ditches so that they can get some grazing and crops planted.

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After about 10km just when I was planning where can I stop to take a break to eat and drink and have a good rest. There came a man on a bicycle and said ‘’come on’’. This gave me some wind in my sail. It always helps to have a person to pace yourself with. He was coming back from town after delivering his load of charcoal. I thought he was going to burn out. This gave me a boost so we were moving along at about 20km/h. He could not really speak English so we had a very broken conversation. After another 10km there joined another man on a bicycle he too was on his way back from town. He also kept the pace good. So after another 10km I started to get the feeling that this trip is getting too long so thought to try the same tactic as the first chap did to me. I said’’ come’’ and changed gear to higher gear and stood up. Picking the speed up to 25km/h. The first man dropped out but that was really because it was his village that we went through. The second man first dropped back 20m then came next to me and on we went. Just before the end of the road there was a village which he turned into. Boy was I worn out. I was so glad he turned off because I do not think I could have kept that pace any longer. Only then did I realize that these men on their bicycles are fitter than most cyclists because they ride to town a few times a week with a big load of charcoal. Using a one gear bicycle with thick wheels and carrying no water to drink in very high temperatures.

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At the end of this dirt road I found a car park with a security guard and boom gate. Here the security guard raised a red flag. The lodge across the river then sends a boat to come and pick you up. After about fifteen minutes there came a small fishing boat chugging along.

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They picked up my bicycle and luggage and wadded out to the boat. Water was up to the knees.

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Landed at the lodge build on a sand dune at the mouth of the river. There was a Portuguese lady which could not understand me. She then called the lodge manager, couple which were Zimbabwean. The lady asked them to show me a tent site then they would do the paper work later. This turned out three days later.

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Digital Camera

Digital Camera

Turns out this lodge is owned by a big overseas company. They had Indians running it and it ran down into a bad state. Then they placed this couple with a two year contract to pick it up. Some other guests said it is starting to come to its past glory. The baracas and tent sites are swept clean on a daily basis. Each site is picketed off with sticks so nobody will walk over your area. There are palm trees growing all over the lodge area. If you get up early you can pick up coca nuts that fell off the trees in the night and eat them. There are communal ablutions that are clean and airy. Good restaurant, plates are big and full. So you can take away the hunger from swimming all day and walking on the beach. There are also beach volley ball nets if you come in a group.

Digital Camera

Digital Camera

Digital Camera

I spent six days here. Only thing to worry about is when to eat and when to swim. Not many people there during the week. On weekend people drive up from Beira and picnic on the beach. They leave all their beer bottles and papers on the beach. Then the lodge manager sends down the workers to clean up all the time.

Well let me leave some of the stories from the lodge for next post.